Car Care Tips To Keep Your Automobile in Top

Operating Your Car

We've compiled our best expert advice, surprising tricks, and maintenance and fix-it tips to prolong the life of your car!
1. Be patient during the break-in period
You've bought your dream car and now you want to make it last at long as possible in top condition. Here are some things to remember as you pull it out of the dealer's lot:

During the break-in period, typically the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km), keep your speed under 55 mph (88 kpm) or to the speed recommended by your car's manufacturer.

Avoid heavy loads on the drive train, such as towing trailers, and loading the roof rack or trunk with heavy construction materials.

Do not allow your new car to idle for long periods -- this is good advice for the life of your car, but especially during breakin. The oil pressure generated by doing so may not be sending oil to every part of your engine.

Use only light to medium acceleration, keeping the engine rpms below 3,000 for the first few hours of driving.
2. Drive with care everyday
Being car considerate shouldn't stop after the break-in. Drive with care every day and your car will reward you with longer intervals without repair.

Do not race your car's engine during start-up.This is a quick way to add years of wear to your engine, especially if it's cold outside.

Accelerate slowly when you begin your drive.The most wear to the engine and drive train occurs in the first ten to twenty minutes of operation.

Warming the engine by letting it idle in the driveway is not a smart idea.The engine doesn't operate at its peak temperature, resulting in incomplete fuel combustion, soot deposits on cylinder walls, oil contamination, and ultimately damaged components.

Put less strain on your engine and automatic transmission by shifting to neutral at red lights. Otherwise, the engine is still working to push the car even while it's stopped.

Avoid driving at high speeds and accelerating quickly, especially when it's very hot or very cold outside. Such driving behavior will result in more frequent repairs.

Extend the life of your tires with careful driving. Observe posted speed limits. Avoid fast starts, stops, and turns. Avoid potholes and objects on the road. Don't run over curbs or hit the tire against the curb when parking. And, of course, don't burn rubber.

When turning your steering wheel, don't hold it in an extreme right or left position for more than a few seconds. Doing so can damage the power-steering pump.

Consolidate your short driving trips. Most of the wear and tear -- as well as the pollution your car generates -- takes place in the first few minutes of driving. Doing several errands at once, during low traffic hours if possible, will keep your engine happier longer.
3. Buy gas at reputable service stations
Ask whether the gas you buy is filtered at the pump and if the station has a policy about changing the pump filters regularly. If you get a song and dance, find another gas station. Some stations don't have pump filters, making you more vulnerable to dirty gasoline. Other stations may not mix alcohol and fuel properly -- or worse, water down their product. Find a station you trust and stick to it.
4. Don't fill up if you see the tanker
If you happen to see a gasoline tanker filling the tanks at your local gas station, come back another day or go to a different station. As the station's underground tanks are being filled, the turbulence can stir up sediment. Sediment in your gas can clog fuel filters and fuel injectors, causing poor performance and possibly necessitating repairs.
5. Go easy when you're stuck
When stuck in mud or snow, don't make the problem worse by damaging an expensive component. Gently rocking in an attempt to free the car is fine. But if it looks as though you're really stuck, don't keep at it. Throwing your car from forward to reverse repeatedly, as well as spinning tires at high speeds, can generate lots of heat and spell trouble for transmissions, clutches, and differentials. It may be cheaper in the long run to call the tow truck rather than risk big repair bills down the road. It's a good idea to carry a traction aid in the trunk, such as sand, gravel, or cat litter.
6. Lighten up your key chain
Does your car key share a chain with a dozen or more other keys? That's a pretty heavy load hanging off the car key when it's in the ignition.The weight, combined with bouncing while you drive, can wear out the tumblers inside the ignition and eventually lead to ignition switch failure.To add years of service to your ignition switch, purchase a lightweight key chain that allows you to separate your ignition key from the others. Drive with only the ignition key in your ignition. If your ignition key "sticks" when you try to turn on the car, it's a warning that your ignition switch is about to fail. Replace it before you get stranded.
7. Choose a good car insurer
Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, disaster inevitably strikes -- typically in the form of an accident. Make sure that your car will be repaired to the best possible standard by finding an insurer that will pay for parts from the original manufacturer and guarantee the repairs it authorizes.
8. Keep an auto log
Keep a pad and pencil in the glove compartment and use them to record your gas fill-ups and mileage. If you notice that your gas mileage worsens, mention it to your service man. It may be an early warning sign that something is wrong with your car.
9. Preserve your car during long-term storage
If you are not going to use your car for more than a month, store it properly to prevent unnecessary damage and repairs upon your return.

• Fill the gas tank to help prevent condensation from accumulating in the gas tank. Add a fuel stabilizer and drive the car around a bit to distribute the additive to engine parts.
• Wash and wax the car thoroughly to protect the finish.
• Place a vapor barrier on your garage floor. A 4-mil polyethylene drop cloth will do.
• Disengage the parking brake to help avoid brake corrosion.
• Put the car on jack stands to take the weight of the vehicle off the wheels and tires.
• Disconnect and remove the battery to keep it from draining. Place the battery on a trickletype charger. Or periodically drain the battery, using a small light bulb, and then recharge it with a low-volt charger.
• Plug the tailpipe with a rag to prevent moist air from infiltrating into it.

Tire Inflation

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Inflation may be an undesirable consequence of our economic times. But when it comes to tires inflation is always a good thing, proper tire inflation, that is.

The amount of air required to properly inflate a tire depends on the size and type of tire, the vehicle application (size and weight), vehicle loading (normal or extra loading), and driving conditions. A tire that is properly inflated will provide safe driving, maximum traction, good handling and optimum tire life.

Increasing tire inflation pressure beyond the recommended amount will reduce rolling resistance, thereby improving fuel economy. But the trade-off is a harsher ride and increased risk of tire damage when encountering bumps.

Excessive tire pressure may distort the tread to the point where it bulges like a donut, reducing contact with the road and increasing wear in the center of the tread. Under no circumstances should a tire ever be inflated beyond the maximum rating as indicated on the sidewall.

CAUSE OF MOST TIRE PROBLEMS IS UNDER-INFLATION

By far, under-inflation is a more common and serious problem. Reducing inflation pressure increases a tire's rolling resistance and hurts fuel economy. Plus, an under-inflated tire flexes more, which leads to increased and uneven tread wear. As a rule of thumb, tire life decreases 10 percent for every 10 percent it is under-inflated.

Under-inflation also makes a tire run hot. Increased flexing of the sidewall increases the temperature of the tire, which in turn increases the risk of a tire failure and blowout.

A low tire can cause other problems as well. The amount of air in each tire affects weight distribution between the wheels. An under-inflated tire does not carry it is full share of the load. This, in turn, affects chassis loading, traction, steering, alignment and braking. It may also cause a noticeable steering pull when driving or braking.

An under-inflated tire can also break traction more easily than one which is properly inflated, which can cause skidding during braking or hard cornering, or wheel spin when accelerating.

If your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), it should turn on a warning light if tire pressure in any tire drops 15% or more under the factory recommended inflation pressure.

HOW MUCH TIRE PRESSURE?

How much air is the right amount to use? It depends on the application, the vehicle, the size of the tires and how much weight is on the tires. The simple answer is to follow the recommended inflation pressures specified by the vehicle manufacturer. The tire inflation specifications are generally listed in the owner's manual or on a decal in the glove box or door jamb.

For many passenger cars and light trucks, the recommended OE tire pressure may range from 28 up to 34 psi. Recommended pressures for front and rear may also vary, and higher pressures may be recommended for towing or hauling loads.

Keep in mind that recommended inflation pressure are for COLD tires. This means tires that have not been driven on for several hours (ideally overnight). It also means tires that are at a normal outside temperature of about 70 degrees F.

To accurately inflate a tire, you have to compensate for changes in temperature. For every 10 degrees F change in ambient temperature, tire pressure will change a little more than half a pound.

A tire that contains 32 psi of air at 70 degrees F will have a little over 35 psi at 100 degrees F - even if the vehicle has not been driven. Take a quick drive down the freeway and heat up the tires even more, and the pressure may read 38 to 40 psi.

Likewise, when seasons change and temperatures drop, tires lose pressure. They have not lost any air, but the air is not exerting as much pressure as before. The same tire that held 32 psi at 70 degrees F will have only about 28 psi when the thermometer hits 32 degrees F. And when temperatures are in the subzero range, the loss in air pressure will be several pounds more.

Altitude will also affect tire pressure. For every 1,000 feet in elevation above sea level, atmospheric pressure decreases about a half a pound. As a result, tire pressure goes up an equal amount. A tire gauge that reads accurately at sea level will read about 3 psi too high at an elevation of 6,000 feet.

UNDER-INFLATION REDUCES TIRE LIFE

Tire life decreases 10 percent for every 10 percent it is under-inflated. A tire that normally requires 32 psi of air and is would normally go about 80,000 miles will lose about 8,000 miles of expected tread life at 29 psi (assuming the vehicle is properly aligned).

The same tire under-inflated to 26 lbs. will lose about 16,000 miles of tread life. If under-inflated to 22 lbs., tire life will decrease by at least 24,000 miles.

Tires and alloy rims typically leak a little air over time, and with radials it is hard to visually check if a tire is low or not. That is why inflation pressure should be checked once a month. Yet few motorists do, and consequently, over 50 percent of all vehicles have one or more tires that are under- or overinflated.

WARNING: OLD TIRES LEAK AIR

Here's something else you should know: OLD tires leak more air than new tires. As rubber ages, it becomes more porous. An aging tire may lose up to several pounds of air a month. This is a clue that the tires are getting old and should be replaced. Old tires are dangerous and may fail without warning. The risk of failure is greatest at hight speeds during hot weather. Some tire manufacturers recommend replacing ANY tire that is 10 or more years old regardless of tread wear or condition.

DO NOT USE TIRE SEALER WITH TPMS SENSORS

WARNINGIf you have a tire that is leaking air or a flat tire on a vehicle that has a direct Tire Pressure Monitoring System with TPMS sensors inside the wheels, do NOT attempt to fix the flat by using an aerosol tire inflator/sealer product. The sealer may gum up the TPMS sensor inside the wheel and prevent it from reading normally. Most aerosol inflator/sealer products have a warning on the product label stating they should NOT be used in wheels that contain TPMS sensors. Inflator/sealer products are safe to use, however, in tires on vehicles that have an indirect TPMS monitoring system.

CHECK TIRE PRESSURE AFTER NEW TIRES HAVE BEEN INSTALLED

Tire inflation pressure should always be checked after a tire has mounted on a wheel to make sure it is within recommendations. If a bead is slow to seat, it can be very easy to over-inflate the tire (inflation pressure should never exceed 40 psi!). If the tire is overinflated, depress the valve stem core to vent some air. If it is low, add air.

USE AN ACCURATE TIRE GAUGE

Use an accurate tire pressure gauge. Gauges are often out of calibration (especially cheap ones). The trouble is you don't know if the gauge is accurate or not. Even if you own two tire pressure gauges and they both give you the exact same pressure reading, there is no guarantee they are accurate (though the odds are favorable that two gauges that read the same are probably accurately calibrated). The most accurate tire pressure gauges are the hand-held electronic digital gauges that are self-calibrating. The LEAST accurate are the dial type gauges found on most tire inflation machines at gas stations.

Automotive Electrical Systems Troubleshooting & Repair Basics

Problems with automotive electrical systems can have a number of causes. The adverse affects of weather are often to blame, as rain and splashed puddles can seep into cars and trucks, damaging circuitry. Perhaps the most common automotive electrical system failure is when a battery dies, which often requires the use of jumper cables to temporarily make the vehicle -- and its electrical components -- run again. When troubleshooting and repairing electrical problems, it is important to work cautiously and to get the help of an expert if necessary.

No Voltage

1. All of the electrical components in your car or truck require voltage in order to function. Therefore, according to AA1Car.com (see Reference 1), troubleshooting a malfunctioning automotive electrical system first requires you to test for voltage. You can use two tools to do this: a voltmeter or a 12-volt indicator light (that glows in the presence of voltage). No matter which you use, attach it to the malfunctioning component's voltage source or load point (such as a windshield wiper motor or light bulb). If there is no voltage detected at a load point, this is likely indicative of a blown fuse or a faulty circuit breaker. According to AA1Car.com, replacing a blown fuse will often restore power, but it will not be a permanent fix. You must determine the underlying cause of the blown fuse, which is likely a defective circuit breaker. According to the above source, the simplest way to check if a circuit breaker is functioning properly is to bypass it with the use of a jumper wire. If the electrical component functions when this happens, you will know the circuit breaker is faulty and needs replacing.

   Low Voltage

2. Automotive electrical components require not just voltage, but a specific quantity of voltage to function properly. Two common indications of low voltage are slower-starting engines and dimmer lights. According to AA1Car.com, a low battery could be the cause of low voltage in electrical components. You can use a voltmeter to test the battery, which should read at least 12.43 volts according to the above source. If your battery tests below this amount, recharge or replace it.
   Low voltage may also produce electric problems that occur only once in a while, such as the radio or air-conditioning cutting in and out. According to the above source, wiring resistance, such as a corroded or loose connector, usually causes this.
   To find the precise location of the problem, use a voltmeter to perform a drop test. This requires you to test consecutive sections of wiring, and look for drops in voltage. A voltage drop of more than .4 volts will indicate a problem area, according to AA1Car.Com.

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Car Seat Safety

Car Seat Best Practices

Car seat safety recommendations and car seat models have changed over the years, which makes it important for parents to keep up with all of the latest information on car seats to help keep their kids as safe as possible when riding in the car. For example, most car safety experts now recommend that toddlers continue to ride rear-facing, and that preschoolers continue to ride in forward-facing car seats with harness straps much longer than they used to.

Fortunately, car seat models are now available with higher weight and height limits to help you meet these new recommendations. These include rear-facing, infant-only seats with a 30- to 35-pound weight limit, as well as forward-facing seats with 5-point harness straps that have a 65- to 80-pound weight limit.

Car Seat Best Practices

To keep your child safe, in addition to choosing the right type and model of car seat, it is important that you use your car seat correctly by following these car seat best practices:

Register your car seat so that you will be notified of any car seat recalls.

Use your car seat in the correct position, in the back seat:

• rear-facing until your infant is at least one year old and 20 pounds, although it is likely safest to continue rear-facing until you reach the weight limits of your car seat
• forward-facing in a five-point harness until your toddler or preschooler is about 40 pounds and 4 years old, although it is likely best to ride in a harnessed seat as long as possible if you have a seat with a harness that has higher weight and height limits
• in a booster seat until he is ready for seatbelts (when he is about 4 feet, 9 inches tall, between 8 and 12 years old)

Avoid common car seat mistakes, such as putting harness straps or a harness chest clip in the wrong position; not using the LATCH system correctly; taking a child out of his booster seat and putting him into regular seat belts before he is ready; or letting kids ride in the front seat before they are old enough.

Avoid reusing a car seat after an accident, especially a moderate or severe accident.

Follow your state car seat laws; where they are lacking (some states say it is OK to take kids out of a car seat at age 4 or 5, for example), follow the recommendations of the AAP and keep your kids in a booster seat until they are about 4 feet, 9 inches tall.

Do some research to find the right car seat for your child with special needs.

Avoid having your child wear heavy clothing, like a winter coat, that may interfere with proper harnessing.

Consider visiting a car seat inspection station to make sure you are using your child's car seat correctly.

_Sources:

_{American Academy of Pediatrics. Car Safety Seats: A Guide for Families. Accessed November 2009. http://www.aap.org/family/Carseatguide.htm}

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Engine Oil Pressure Warning Light On

 

If the engine oil pressure warning light is on, it may mean your engine has lost normal oil pressure. STOP driving immediately and turn the engine off. The engine can be severely damaged if oil pressure is lost.

Possible Causes of Low Oil Pressure Warning Light:

A low oil level (check the dipstick), bad oil pump, or defective oil pressure sending unit, oil pressure gauge or warning light switch.

Diagnosis:

First, determine if the oil is full or low by checking the dipstick. NOTE: On some engines, there is an oil level sensor in the engine's oil pan that will turn on the oil warning light if the oil level is low. If the dipstick shows a low oil level (the oil level is at or below the ADD line, or no oil can be seen on the dipstick), your engine may be leaking oil, burning oil or both.

Oil leaks are a common cause of oil consumption and a low oil level in the engine. Oil leaks can occur at the valve cover, oil pan or timing cover gaskets, or the front and rear crankshaft oil seals. Inspect the top, sides and bottom of the engine for signs of oil leakage. Look for greasy stains, heavy accumulations of grease, or oil dripping on the ground. The higher the miles on the engine, the more likely the gaskets and seals may be leaking. If your engine is leaking oil because of a bad gasket or seal, the leaky gasket or seal should be replaced.

If the outside of the engine is clean and there are no obvious oil leaks, and the oil level is low, the engine is probably burning oil due to worn piston rings, valve guides or valve guide seals. This may be the result of high mileage wear or neglect. Either way, this kind of oil consumption problem is expensive to fix because it may require rebuilding or replacing the engine. NOTE: On many engines, replacing the valve guide seals will significantly reduce oil burning if the original guides and seals are worn.

If the oil usage is not too severe (say less than one quart of oil every 1000 miles), check the dipstick often and keep adding oil as needed. If the engine is using a lot of oil (say more than a quart every 500 miles), check the dipstick constantly and keep plenty of oil onhand. An engine that is burning a lot of oil is worn out and will soon have to be overhauled or replaced.

Bad Oil Pump?

If the oil level is between ADD and FULL, and the engine was making noise when it was running, the problem may be a bad oil pump. DO NOT run the engine until the problem can be repaired. Oil pressure can be checked by attaching a pressure gauge to the engine where the oil pressure sending unit is attached. If oil pressure is within specifications (typically 10 psi for every 1000 rpm) the oil pump is okay. If pressure is less than specifications, the oil pump may be worn, or the engine bearings may be worn.
If the oil level is between ADD and FULL, and the engine was running normally (no noise) after the oil pressure warning light came on, the problem may be a defective pressure sending unit, gauge or warning light switch. You can probably start the engine and drive the vehicle home or to a shop for repairs. But if the engine starts to become noisy, STOP and shut off the engine.

Repairs:

If the oil level is low, add oil to the engine to bring the level up to the FULL mark on the dipstick. DO NOT overfill the crankcase. Use the type of oil viscosity specified in the vehicle owners manual.

If the oil pump is bad (does not produce adequate pressure), the oil pump will have to be replaced. On most engines, the oil pump is located inside the oil pan on the bottom of the engine. The pan must be removed to replace the pump. This may require raising the engine and/or removing steering or suspension components that are in the way so the pan can be removed. On other engines, the oil pump is located inside the timing cover on the front of the engine. Disassembly required removing most of the components on the front of the engine to access the pump.

If oil pressure is low because of worn engine bearings, the crankshaft bearings will have to be replaced. This usually requires overhauling or replacing the engine.

Technical Aspects Allow Wheels

Wheel Size
Two measurements, the Rim Diameter and the Rim Width, normally determine the wheel size. This is best explained with reference to the diagram shown on the right:
Offset

The ‘Offset’ of a wheel measures the distance between the wheel centreline and the wheel mounting face and is measured in millimetres. It is extremely important that wheels of the correct offset are used in order to maintain the correct track of the vehicles.
Offset can be Positive or Negative and is best illustrated in the two diagrams on the left. Most Modern vehicles are front-wheel drive, and as such generally require positive offset wheels. The main exception to this rule is 4x4 vehicles, which often use negative offset wheels.
Clearance
It is, of course, extremely important that the clearance Pitch Circle Diameterof both the vehicle body work and steering/suspension components are maintained. Failure to do so would most likely cause damage to both the tyre/wheel assembly as well as the body of the vehicles. Clearance is achieved by selecting a wheel of the correct size and type of tyre. Quality alloy wheel suppliers can give such information.
Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD)
The P.C.D. can be defined as the diameter (in millimetres) of an imaginary circle drawn through the centre of the stud holes on the wheel and/or the vehicle wheel hub.
When new wheels are required, it is essential that they have the correct P.C.D. for the vehicle concerned.

Wheel Location on Hub
Adaptor / Spigor Ring Arrangement Motor vehicle manufacturers use a central location collar on the stub axle hub in order to accurately locate the wheel. The wheel collar diameter varies, depending on the make of vehicle.
Many replacement allow wheel manufacturers use an adapter (spigot ring) to vary the diameter of the locating hole. In this way, a particular wheel can, by changing the spigot ring, be used on a variety of vehicles.
The adapter/spigot ring arrangement is illustrated in the diagrams to the left.
As an example, tsw spigot rings should always be fitted without he tapered edge facing the vehicle hub. This is to allow easy and accurate location of the ring onto the hub collar.

Upstepping to High Performance
Legal and illegal wheel/tyre combinationsVehicle performance can be maximised by selecting a lower profile tyre and larger wheel diameter combination. Care must be taken to select the appropriate replacement wheel / tyre combination to avoid problems.

For example, it is a legal requirements that the tyre and wheel assemblies stay within the body of the car.
The fitting of larger diameter replacement wheels is referred to as ‘up-stepping’. Up-stepping‘Plus One’ or ‘Plus Two’ denotes how much larger the wheel diameter is.

This approach of ‘up-stepping’ allows the tyre section width to be increased whilst maintaining the correct overall diameter. This allows the optimisation of cornering force and grip whilst maintaining the original gearing of the vehicle. One example of this is:
195/60 R 14 14 inch diameter Original size
205/50 R 15 15 inch diameter Plus One
205/45 R 16 16 inch diameter Plus Two
205/40 R 17 17 inch diameter Plus Three
All of the above have an overall rolling diameter which is within an acceptable tolerance.
Aspect Ratio
Aspect ratio is the ratio of section height to section width. It should be noted that in general, tyres with a lower section height (i.e. where the aspect ratio is lowered) have a higher cornering force and therefore improved performance-handling characteristics.

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Motorists 'should ensure windscreens are kept clear'

 

Car owners have been warned of the need to keep their vehicles' windscreens clear in order to keep themselves safe and compliant with motoring law.
Window specialist Auto Windscreens has reminded drivers that keeping the windshield clean is an oft-overlooked aspect of proper car care.
Nigel Davies, sales and marketing director for the firm, said: "Our experience is that motorists tend to be complacent about ensuring good visibility which means that the windscreen is often an after-thought … when it comes to car maintenance."
This is despite the fact that driving with obstructed vision represents a breach of road use laws, which could result in a fine, penalty points or even disqualification.
Mr Davies therefore called on drivers to make a priority of maintaining their windscreens properly both for their own sake and for the safety of other drivers.
Last week, motorists in Manchester and Birmingham were also reminded by Michelin to monitor their tire pressure when maintaining their car in order to avoid damaging both the vehicle and the road.

Car Care Tips

 

According to recent studies, 5 percent of all motor vehicle fatalities are clearly caused by automobile maintenance neglect.

The following simple and inexpensive preventive checks will greatly extend the life of the vehicle, ensure safer operation and even benefit the environment.

Always consult your owner’s manual, but a good rule of thumb is to have the oil filter changed regularly, every 3,000 to 4,000 miles.

Have all fluids checked, including brake, power steering, transmission/transaxle, windshield washer solvent and antifreeze. These fluids play a large role in the safety and performance of the vehicle.

Check tire inflation. Under-inflated tires can result in a loss of fuel efficiency. This is the least expensive form of preventive and safety maintenance. Tires should be checked once a month.

Keep your engine tuned. A fouled spark plug or plugged/restricted fuel injector can reduce fuel efficiency as much as 30 percent.

Have the chassis lubricated frequently. This step extends the life of the moving components of the vehicle's suspension system.

Check battery cables and posts for corrosion and clean them as needed. The battery fluid should also be checked and filled if it is low, except in the case of maintenance-free batteries.

Have the lighting system checked frequently, including headlights, turn signals, and brake and tail lights.

Check windshield washer blades for cracks, tears and windshield contact. Replace them approximately once a year or sooner if streaking begins.

Inspect engine belts regularly. Worn belts will affect the engine performance. Look for cracks and missing sections or segments.

Have the air filtration system checked frequently. The air filter should be checked approximately every other oil change for clogging or damage. This system ensures that the vehicle is performing at its peak condition.

Always consult the vehicle owner's manual for individual service schedules as manufacturer maintenance requirements vary greatly.

Auto Air Conditioner Blowing Warm Air, Not Cooling

 

Is you car's air conditioner blowing warm air only and no cool air? Your A/C cooling problem could be caused by any of the following:

Your A/C system may have lost its charge of refrigerant, or the compressor may not be engaging when you turn on the A/C, or the blend air door inside the HVAC unit may be stuck in the HEAT position so no air goes through the A/C evaporator.

Start with the compressor. Does it engage when you turn on the A/C?

If so, the compressor is working and the A/C system probably contains enough refrigerant to make cold air, so the problem is inside the HVAC unit. Replace the motor that controls the blend air door (this is a difficult job and best left to a professional since it involves tearing apart the HVAC unit -- about an 8 to 10 hour job!).

If the compressor does not engage when you turn on the A/C, see if it will run by jumping the compressor clutch wire directly to the battery (use a fused jumper wire). If the compressor works when you jump it, and the A/C blows cold air, the system contains refrigerant and the fault is likely a bad A/C compressor clutch relay or a bad clutch cycling switch or pressure switch.

If the compressor does not engage when you jump it, the problem is a bad compressor clutch.

If the clutch engages but the compressor does not turn (the belt will start to slip and squeal), the compressor is loced up and you need a new compressor.

If the compressor clutch engages and turns the compressor, but the A/C still does not blow cold air, the system is probably low on refrigerant and needs to be recharged. If you Have an A/C gauge set, hook it up and see if the system has any pressure.

If it is out of refrigerant or is low, check for leaks, then have the A/C system vacuum purged to remove air. After the air is out, it can be recharged with the specified amount of refrigerant. It is important to get any air out as this will reduce cooling efficiency and may make the compressor noisy.

My advice to you if you know nothing about A/C service is to find a repair shop that specializes in A/C repairs and let them fix your cooling problem for you. Today's A/C systems with automatic climate control are very complex and reuire special tools and know-how to diagnose and repair.

Check Engine Light

 

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

Also called the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" or (MIL), an illuminated CHECK ENGINE LIGHT means you vehicle has detected a potential emissions fault. The computer has logged one or more diagnostic trouble codes that correspond to the problem and turned on the warning lamp to alert you to the problem.

There is NO WAY to determine the nature of the problem without connecting a scan tool to the vehicle's diagnostic connector to read the fault code(s). Once this has been done, further diagnosis and testing may be required to isolate the fault so the correct parts(s) can be replaced.

Don't be alarmed by a CHECK Engine Light. Often the problem is something minor that will NOT affect the way your engine runs, or you car's ability to start or drive. Depending on the nature of the fault, your engine may not run as good as it normally does, or it may use more fuel than usual. But usually the problem does NOT require immediate attention. You can continue to drive your car until it can be diagnosed.

Common reasons for the CHECK ENGINE light to come on include a loose gas cap, fouled spark plugs, dirty fuel injectors, the failure of an engine sensor such as the oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor or manifold absolute pressure sensor, or a problem in an emissions control system or device such as the EGR valve or catalytic converter.

OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT

If a warning light says OIL or you see a little icon of an oil can, DO NOT ignore this warning light. It means your engine is not getting normal oil pressure. Stop driving immediately, turn the engine off and check the engine's oil level. If low, add oil to bring the level up to the FULL mark on the dipstick.

The oil pressure warning light comes on when oil pressure drops below a minimum threshold (the exact pressure will vary from one vehicle to another). No engine will run very long if it runs out of oil. The bearings will run dry, overheat and seize, causing severe engine damage (spun bearings, damaged crankshaft journals, broken connecting rods, etc.).

The underlying cause of a low oil pressure warning light is usually a low oil level in the engine's crankcase. This, in turn, may be due to leaky gaskets or seals, or worn valve guides, piston rings and/or cylinders that are causing the engine to burn oil. Leaky gaskets and seals are usually not too expensive to replace (except for the rear main crankshaft seal which is difficult and expensive to replace). The only fix for a worn engine that is burning oil is to overhaul or replace the engine (very expensive!)

Other causes of an low oil pressure warning light include a worn oil pump or a faulty oil pressure sending unit.

TEMPERATURE WARNING LIGHT

A TEMP warning light or an icon of a thermometer is another warning lamp that you should NOT ignore. Stop driving immediately, turn the engine off and let the engine cool for at least 30 minutes. Then check the coolant level in the coolant reservoir or radiator.

CAUTION: DO NOT open the radiator cap on a hot engine. Hot water and/or steam can spray out and scald you.

The temperature warning lamp is on because your engine overheated. Continuing to drive can cause expensive engine damage (head gasket failure, cracks in the cylinder head, piston scuffing, valve stem galling, etc.)

Your engine may have overheated for a variety of reasons. The most common cause is a low coolant level (check the radiator, hoses and engine for coolant leaks). Other common causes include a stuck thermostat, a cooling fan that is not working, a failed water pump, obstructions that block airflow through the radiator (bugs, debris, plastic bags), a buildup of scale or sludge inside your cooling system, or overworking your engine or air conditioning system during unusually hot weather. Towing a heavy trailer or prolonged mountain driving may also cause your engine to run hotter than normal.

If the coolant level is low, add coolant after the engine has cooled off. Check for leaks. If you see none, start the engine and cautiously proceed. If the engine starts to overheat again, your engine may have an internal coolant leak (Bad news because it means a leaky head gasket or cracks in the cylinder head or block), or there is some other problem (bad thermostat, water pump, etc.).

If you see a coolant leak, you may be able to temporarily stop the leak by adding a can of cooling system sealer to the radiator. This may temporarily plug the leak or slow it down enough so you can continue driving until the leak can be fixed.

CHARGING SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT

The "GEN" or "ALT" warning light, or an icon of a battery usually means trouble (on some vehicles, a battery icon may illuminate if there is a charging system problem). You do NOT have to stop immediately, but your drive time will be limited: maybe 30 minutes or so during the daytime, or less after dark. The reason for this is that your car will be running off the battery alone, so as long as the battery lasts you can continue to drive. Eventually, the battery will go dead causing your fuel pump and/or ignition system to stop working. To maximize your remaining drive time, turn off all accessories to minimize the electrical drain on the battery. If you're driving at night, DO NOT turn off your lights (too dangerous!). Pull off at the first opportunity and seek help.

This warning light comes on when the charging system is NOT producing enough current or voltage to meet your vehicle's electrical needs. The cause may be a failed alternator or generator, a failed voltage regulator (if separate from the alternator), loose or corroded battery cables, or a broken or slipping drive belt. Turn the engine off and check the belt that turns the alternator. Caution: DO NOT get your fingers, clothing or tools near the belt(s) or pulleys while the engine is running.

If the belt appears to be intact and is turning the alternator, start the engine, and turn on the headlights. If the lights are dim, it verifies the charging system is not working -- probably due to a failed alternator or other electrical fault.

BRAKE WARNING LIGHT

More bad news -- but not always. The Brake Warning light may be one for one of two reasons: you forgot to release the parking brake, or your brake system has a potentially serious hydraulic problem that may make your vehicle unsafe to drive.

First, check the parking brake lever, handle or pedal. Make sure it is fully released. If that is not the problem, test the brakes by pressing on the brake pedal. If the light comes on only while pressing the pedal, it means one of the hydraulic circuits in the brake system has lost pressure -- probably because of a leak (bad brake hose, leaky disc brake caliper or drum brake wheel cylinder). Your vehicle may or not be able to stop with this kind of problem, making it unsafe to drive. If the pedal feels unusually low or goes to the floor, DO NOT attempt to drive the vehicle. Have it towed to a service facility for repairs (or fix it yourself).

If the Brake Warning light remains on all the time, the problem may be a low fluid level in the master brake cylinder reservoir. Many vehicles have a fluid level sensor that comes on if the fluid level gets low. This may also occur when braking hard or braking on an incline because of the fluid sloshing inside the reservoir. Check the btake fluid level and add fluid as needed if low. The brake system should also be inspected for leaks or worn linings.

ABS WARNING LIGHT

This warning lamp means your antilock brake system has detected a fault. When this happens, the ABS system logs one or more fault codes that correspond to the problem and turns on the ABS warning light. In most cases, it also temporarily DISABLES your ABS system. You vehicle should still brake and stop normally, but it will NOT have antilock braking when making a sudden panic stop or braking on wet or slick surfaces. You can continue driving, but you should have the problem diagnosed and repaired at your earliest convenience.

NOTE: If the Brake Warning light is also on, it may indicate a serious hydraulic problem with the brake system. Your vehicle may NOT be safe to drive (see the info on Brake Warning Light above).

LAMP OUT INDICATOR LIGHT

This is a warning that you have a lamp out: a headlight, taillight, stop light or turn signal indicator. You can continue to drive your vehicle, but with reduced visibility and safety. Be warned that law enforcement officers may stop you and issue you a warning ticket or a safety violation ticket.

Check all the lights on your vehicle when it is safe to do so (not in the middle of the highway at night!), and replace any bulbs that have burned out. In some cases, the problem might be a corroded or loose socket, loose or corroded wiring, or a blown fuse.

SEAT BELT LIGHT WARNING LIGHT OR CHIMES

This little icon means somebody forgot to buckle up. Seat belts save lives so always use them, even on short trips. Driving without being bucked up may result in a ticket and a fine for a safety violation.

AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT

A warning light that looks like this or says SRS should NEVER come on unless there is a fault in your vehicle's air bag system (supplemental restraint system or SRS). Like the engine computer and ABS computer, the air bag control module runs a self-check every time the vehicle is driven. If it finds a fault in a crash sensor, one of the air bag modules, the wiring or itself, it will set a code, turn on the warning light and disable itself. You can drive the vehicle but the air bag(s) will NOT deploy should you be involved in an accident. You should have the problem diagnosed and repaired at your earliest convenience.

LOW WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID WARNING LIGHT

This is a reminder light that the fluid level is low in your windshield washer reservoir. Add fluid at your earliest convenience for safe driving.

DOOR AJAR WARNING LIGHT

This is a reminder light that one of the doors (or tailgate) is not completely closed. Check all the doors (and tailgate) to make sure they are all latched properly. Sometimes the metal contacts that tell your vehicle the door is closed become dirty or corroded, causing a FALSE indication that a door is ajar. Cleaning the contacts will usually solve this kind of problem

SERVICE REMINDER LIGHT

Many late model vehicles have an oil change reminder light that comes on when the engine computer estimates the oil needs to be changed. The calculations are based on hours of engine operation, vehicle speed, ambient temperatures and other operating conditions. You do NOT have to change the oil immediately, but neither should you postpone the recommended maintenance too long. Oil should be changed every 3,000 miles for short trip city stop and go driving (especially during cold weather), or every 5,000 to 7,500 miles for mostly highway driving. Refer to your vehicle owners manual for the recommended service intervals.

Many service reminder lights have a RESET button that allows you to turn off the light and reset the interval period. On some, though, a scan tool is required to turn off and reset the light.

Car Battery Maintenance: To Water or Not to Water?

    In millions of vehicles, lead-acid
batteries start people on billions of journeys every day.  Yet as car engines
become more complex and the technology of automotive batteries advances,
motorists seem to be confused about the proper maintenance of the batteries
under their hoods.  The article, "Auto Batteries:  Some Go the Distance" in
the November 2005 issue of Consumer Reports, clouds the issue further.
    The auto battery, made of lead, plastic and electrolyte -- a dilute
solution of sulfuric acid and water -- is designed to deliver a short burst of
high power to start the vehicle's engine.  What does battery maintenance
entail?  Should motorists pry off the battery caps, check the electrolyte
level and add water?  And what does the term "maintenance-free" really mean?
    Battery Council International (BCI), the trade organization representing
the country's leading manufacturers and recyclers of lead-acid automotive,
commercial, telecommunications and industrial batteries, provides clear and
unequivocal recommendations.

    Maintenance-free batteries

    The Consumer Reports article states:  "While some batteries with caps are
claimed to be maintenance-free, any such model should have the electrolyte
level beneath its caps checked at least yearly, according to Battery Council
International, an industry group."  This is incorrect.
    According to BCI, the majority of today's auto batteries are maintenance-
free.  This means that motorists should not check or top off the electrolyte
levels in maintenance-free batteries.
    "Battery manufacturers provide instructions with their products, and a
motorist should read and follow all of instructions that come with the
battery," said Randy Hart, President of BCI.  Mr. Hart also is President of
Superior Battery Manufacturing, Co. in Russell Springs, Kentucky.
    In addition, the battery label generally provides guidelines:  many
maintenance-free battery labels carry a "do not open" or similar statement.
Finally, battery caps that appear to be removable may actually be glued or
locked in place.  "If a battery cap is meant to be opened, it can be opened
without much effort. Forcing or prying these caps open may destroy or
permanently damage the battery," Mr. Hart said.

    Maintenance-accessible batteries

    Every battery is not maintenance-free; a few auto batteries are referred
to as "low water loss" or "maintenance accessible" batteries.  In certain
conditions, such as hot climates or high heat, it may be necessary for the
motorist to add water.  Here, too, the battery label will provide a guideline:
these products typically do not carry a maintenance-free label or a statement
that advises against opening.
    For maintenance-accessible batteries, the motorist can check electrolyte
levels by a few different measures.  Some batteries have removable battery
caps; others carry a "magic eye," a small, round device that floats to the top
of the electrolyte; still others have a translucent case through which the
fluid level can be seen.  If the level is low, the motorist can top off the
electrolyte by adding a small amount of distilled -- not tap -- water.
Battery Council advises against tap water, which can contain chlorine or other
chemicals that can change the composition of the electrolyte.
    While today's auto batteries provide motorists with reliable service and
long life, nothing lasts forever.  All batteries eventually reach the end of
their service lives.  In addition, a battery can dry out and fail prematurely
if the vehicle's electrical system malfunctions or fails.
    "But in a properly designed, voltage-regulated system, water loss should
not cause maintenance-free batteries to fail," said Mr. Hart.
    What about original equipment batteries that come with a new car?  For the
original vehicle battery, customers should follow the vehicle manufacturer's
instructions about checking electrolyte levels.  When it's time to replace the
battery, the motorist should buy a compatible replacement and follow the
instructions with the replacement battery.

    Other maintenance tips
    Motorists should occasionally check the terminal connections (where the
battery cables are hooked to the battery) to be sure the connections are tight
and free of corrosion.  If the terminals are corroded, they can be cleaned
with a brush (such as a discarded toothbrush) and a light paste of household
baking soda and water.  Keeping the terminals bright and tight will help
ensure that the battery performs through its entire service life.
    "Without automotive batteries, virtually everything but muscle-powered
transportation would stop," said Mr. Hart.  "Lead-acid batteries satisfy our
voracious appetite for clean, recyclable and recycled energy under the hood,
and there's no mystery to keeping them in top form."

    Note: BCI is a not-for-profit organization that represents the
international lead-acid battery manufacturing and recycling industry. It
provides its members and outside organizations with a statistical database of
information pertaining to the battery industry.

SOURCE Battery Council International

The Causes of a Continuous Tapping Sound From the Engine

When you start your car engine in the morning, sometimes you will hear some sort of tapping sound coming from the engine. The sound will disappear after the engine has warm up. This is quite normal on some cars but if the tapping sound continues as long as the engine is running, then there is something wrong with the car engine.

As the engine rpm increases, the sound will also increases and when the engine rpm slows down, the tapping sound also decreases. If you open the hood, you can hear that the loudest sound comes from the top of the engine.

Stuck hydraulic lifters caused most of the sounds that you hear coming from the top of the engine. The hydraulic lifter or also known as hydraulic tappet or hydraulic lash adjuster is designed to take up the normal expansion and contraction during the heating and cooling of metals in the engine.

The lifter is also designed to maintain zero valve clearance in an internal combustion engine where it ensure the valve train always work with zero clearance for a quieter operation and at the same time to ensure periodic valve clearance adjustment is not required.

If one or more of the lifters are stuck or jam, tapping sound will occur. If the sound lasts for a couple of seconds or minutes, then frequent oil change could free up the jam lifter. If the sound continues, then the lifter will have to be replaced.

If you notice that when the engine is giving out tapping sound and comes with heavy vibration at idle or on heavy load, one of the valve push rods or rocker arms has broken. To confirm this, get you mechanic to remove the rocker arm covers to check on the rocker arms, push rods, and the valve stems. Normally by replacing the rocker arms and bolts, the tapping sound problem can be repaired.

If the tapping sound is accompanied by a muffled backfire when you accelerate, there is a high possibility that the engine camshaft has damage. This require major repair because you also need to replace all the hydraulic lifters. Make sure that your mechanic checked the camshaft thoroughly and confirmed faulty before you start the repair.

If the tapping sound is due to broken rocker arm or push rod, you car will suffer from fuel wastage, poor performance and also high emissions of Carbon Monoxide to the atmosphere.

Car Gearbox Repairs - Avoid the Dodgy Dealers

Not everyone in this world is honest and trusting. It is fair to say that there are some rather cutthroat individuals out there who would do anything to make a fast buck, and in the world of cars, there are many dodgy dealers that you might come up against. So, when you need to have car gearbox repairs, where on earth do you go? You need to find somewhere with a good reputation.

Car Gearbox Repairs - Some People Don't Have A Clue

Many people assume that dodgy dealers are only really found in car dealerships rather than in vehicle repair centres, but this is not always the case. You need to be aware that there are some people out there that don't care about customer service and it would be unfortunate if you ended up with a car mechanic that did a half-hearted job and ultimately didn't fix the gearbox problem. The automotive industry has many dimensions and it is therefore recommended that you approach people with slight trepidation before handing money over or forming a long-term relationship.

Car Gearbox Repairs - Look For The Professionals

The sad thing is, that due to the high number of suspect car garages and the like, those that are good and honest don't get enough praise, and often get tarred with the same brush. This is unfortunate, because they will inevitably do a very good job and pride themselves on their customer service. Those car gearbox repair specialists that have a website, professional premises and a number of hard-working mechanics is evidence that they can be trusted and this is the sort of place you should be visiting if you need car gearbox repairs or you're simply having a few gearbox problems. It makes a refreshing change to see some places trying really hard to retain their customer base and prove that they are an honest business.

Don't Let One Bad Experience Destroy Your Trust!

Often, it is the driver that has a bad experience with a garage or car dealership and then feels reluctant to try anywhere else, which is why the genuine car repair centres have to try so much harder to convince the consumer that they are worth visiting. Check the centre out before you place your trust in them, or base your decision on word of mouth, and that way you know which place to go to.

Proper Tire Maintenance If You Drive a Lot

Proper tire maintenance is very important, especially if you drive frequently or for long distances. Your tires are the only parts of your car that has to handle various kinds of ground surfaces. Therefore, you should make sure you take care of your tires consistently and the right way. It is best to do even just a few minutes of inspection and maintenance each month to keep your tires in good condition.

Proper tire maintenance that you inspect your air pressure at least once a month. Not having good air pressure is a major cause of tire damage. Familiarize yourself with the tire pressure indicated in your vehicle's manual or on the door post, gas tank lid or driver's side door''s edge. The air pressure indicated on your tire is not the right air pressure but rather the maximum air pressure for the tire. Next, prevent hydroplaning and skidding, inspect your tire tread for irregular wear - if there is, see your tire dealer. You should also rotate your tires every 6,000 to 8,000 miles or as indicated in your car's manual.

There are some general things you can do to practice good tire maintenance. For instance, try to stay away from potholes or dirt on the road whenever you can. Also avoid sudden stops and starts. When driving on wet road or when it's about to rain, always remember to slow down, as this results in better traction.

However, if your car still skids despite your efforts to drive cautiously, apply a firm and steady pressure to the breaks and maneuver the vehicle in the direction of the skin, rather than abruptly hitting the brakes. When replacing your tires, it would be best to go with the same type of tires.